The Nappy Hair movement emerged to promote natural kinky hair and to abandon practices that alter the hair: such as straightening.
This hairstyle, which consists of straightening the hair with the help of a product, was all the rage in the 70s and 80s.
Its commercialization began in 1905 when Mrs. CJ Walker invented a product to treat the scalp problems, which affect many Black women, led Ms. CJ Walker to invent the hot straightening technique, making her one of the most powerful Black female entrepreneurs in the hair industry.
This method was later perfected by inventor and businessman Garrett Augustus Morgan. It was in the 1970s that the most common version was offered, namely in the form of a hair straightening cream.
However, hair straightening is not something new and has its origins in slavery.
A story that's not quite so straightforward
During slavery, hairstyles were long a symbol of identity for slaves, representing their roots that linked them to their motherland.
The era of slavery was marked by numerous forms of psychological and physical torture, inflicted through various punishments. Some masters would plunge the heads of rebellious slaves into a solution of water mixed with caustic soda. This practice caused burns, but more importantly, it made the hair straight. This is how hair straightening originated.
Slavery primarily marks the rise of a racist ideology that persists to this day: it establishes a hierarchy between races (sociologically speaking), emphasizing everything associated with whiteness. This ideology was highly repressive during racial segregation, a time when Black people sought to erase all their Negroid features in order to conform to Western beauty standards imposed by white supremacy.
Hair straightening became a tool used by Black people to smooth their hair in order to break with their perceived physical characteristics. Many artists displayed their straightened hair as a sign of social success, making it virtually impossible to see them with their natural hair; like the singer and pianist Nat King Cole.
Despite struggles, such as the "Black is Beautiful" movement, which helped change the perception of kinky hair, hair straightening came back into fashion in the 1980s after African Americans obtained their rights.
What is hair straightening?
As its name suggests, "un-curling" refers to the permanent transformation of hair fibers that are originally frizzy or curly. The texture of the hair is then modified to make it smoother.
On curly and frizzy hair, a strong straightening treatment is performed using an alkaline-based method. The alkaline products open the hair cuticles, allowing them to penetrate deep into the hair fiber and artificially break down the keratin molecules.
This technique will make the hair texture straighter.
We also have thiol-based straightening, which breaks down 30% of the disulfide bonds responsible for hair curl. The hair will therefore straighten until it becomes more supple.
There are two main techniques: a cold technique which involves the use of a straightening cream and a hot technique using a straightening comb which is heated to a high temperature.
Just like the processing time, the strength of the straightening treatment varies depending on the hair type:
- For fine and fragile hair, a gentle straightening treatment is used.
- For fine to normal hair, a regular straightening treatment is recommended.
- For thick and resistant hair, it's best used for a strong straightening treatment.
Making life easier is all well and good, but at what cost?
As we know, there is no such thing as zero risk, especially when we expose our hair to chemical damage!
Using hair straightening products affects hair health: it can lead to scalp burns and hair loss. And that's not all; the damage is even worse when the scalp is already irritated.
Hair straightening completely weakens the hair fiber, leading to a loss of protein, which is 95% composed of hair. As a result, the hair becomes more fragile, making it drier and more brittle.
If the hair straightening product comes into contact with the scalp, it causes an imbalance in the scalp's pH. This imbalance then leads to the appearance of dandruff or scalp irritation.
Furthermore, the composition of hair straightening products leaves much to be desired, as it contains sodium hydroxide and endocrine disruptors.
According to a study conducted by epidemiology researchers in Boston and published in the American Journal of Epidemiology, hair straightening could cause uterine fibroids, early puberty, and urinary problems.
